Double Glazing old timber wood frame advice

[compact]

1930's semi, large curved bay, single glazed with leaded at the top section of windows (not glazing the top part yet).

I would like to double glaze and have read about two options

1) Wood bead on outside, where the putty is, overlapping inwards
Slide in glazed unit from inside and bead on the inside

2) Similar the 1), however the glazed unit has a larger outer piece of glass, so you insert from the outside and use putty.

Has anyone tried either, any thoughts.
Finish, price, quality etc.

 

[AMc]

I'm not really sure I understand what you're suggesting with either option - are you planning on adding a single pane in front or behind or a sealed double glazed unit (to give triple glazing)? A picture or a link would really help.

Things you need to look out for in any case are it's very hard to create a perfect seal so you need to consider how you will deal with condensation, bugs and flies, cleaning and eventual redecoration. I've recently destroyed a secondary, double glazing unit as the way it was fixed made it impossible to get at the window to paint and it broke as I tried to prise it out

There are several threads on here about secondary glazing to improve sound proofing and heat efficiency. I've had sliding and fixed aluminium single glazed units fitted behind my original windows by Everest which work very well though they aren't beautiful. Others have fixed glass or perspex using draft strip, clips or magnetic tape.

 

[worms]

I would have thought that it would be more normal (and provide a better finish) to route out the glazing rebate to a suitable depth and width to accommodate the increased thickness of the DG and cover the DG unit spacer? Always assuming that the original frame is capable of handling that.

 

[compact]

I would have thought that it would be more normal (and provide a better finish) to route out the glazing rebate to a suitable depth and width to accommodate the increased thickness of the DG and cover the DG unit spacer? Always assuming that the original frame is capable of handling that.

Yes, this is what I am now looking out.
How difficult would you suggest this is for the average DIYer?