Doing things properly takes time!

[thiambal]

Decided to brick up an small old fireplace in a bedroom (previously removed by old owner and covered over with hardboard) Decided to do it properly - laid the bricks using lime mortar - bought lime plaster.

Thought this would be a good first attempt at all of these techniques and the finish would not matter too much as the room is going to have lining paper and paint over it.

However, I have now read that you need to leave lime plaster months before covering in anything other than limewash. I was hoping to decorate the room in mid november - is this impractical if I am going to use lime plaster over the new brickwork? Bearing in mind that the bricks only got laid last week so I am still waiting for the mortar to go off sufficiently to apply the rought coat.

Please advise.........that quick drying cement stuff is looking v.tempting! :wink:

 

[thiambal]

Come on chaps, one of you learned men and ladies must know the answer! :wink:

Does it make any difference that it is only a small area, does it make any difference that this is only a single skin of bricks with an air space (i.e. the fire place) behind it?

Or am I going to have to postpone the decorating of the bedroom and suffer the wrath of Mrs C? :shock:

 

[Nemesis]

(I think we are all aghast that you are bricking up a fireplace... )

 

[thiambal]

Ah yes! and fair point in many ways Nemesis

I can imagine there were people reaching for the smelling salts across the web! :wink:

However, I did not take the fire place out, when I moved in there was just a hole covered with hardboard. The chimney breast in question is in our bedroom where it has furniture against it that there is no other space for. There seems little point in spending lots of money replacing the fireplace only for it to be covered by furniture.

I have left the original fireback in place and am taking photos throughout the process to leave a permanent record in the house of exactly where the original fireplace was and how it has been covered over in order to make it easier for someone to open up again in the future if they choose.

Also I am trying to use traditional materials to do the job and to learn new techniques in the process.

If it redeems me in any way - we are currently opening up the chimney breast in the dining room (this is costing a fortune as some fool has removed the original arch before bricking it up!) and replacing the fireplace which we will then use regularly for the purpose intended.

Opening up one fireplace whilst bricking up another - perverse - maybe?

So back to that question of lime plaster........

 

[finglonger]

In terms of leaving something there for the future, wouldn't you be better off closing the opening with something like clay board attached to battens and then lime plastering over that? It's a lot easier to remove a piece of skimmed board and battens than to remove bricks that someone has lovingly laid.

You do have to leave lime plaster for months to cure, but if you are just doing a board and skim coat it may cure faster than 1 or 2 base coats plus finishing coat.

Don't forget to leave a vent in the closed-up opening.

 

[middi]

Thiambal, just give it a few days for the exess water to evaporate from the brick face and the mortar bed, you can then lime plaster over the whole lot, if you have some heating in the room it can be even quicker.

The resudual moisture in the brick work will help the lime render not to go off too quick therefore less cracking,

Apart from limewash, any other paint, wallpaper application etc .., you have no choise but wait untill the mortar has set properly and dry otherwise it may all peel off.

If the chimney stack is still there make sure you provide an air vent, otherwise next year you will be asking why you have damp.

 

[monkey writer]

if you are doing one base coat and one skim how long should you leave the base coat to dry before applying the skim coat?

ALso how do you know when the plaster is cured and ready for paint?

 

[Gervase]

You can skim over a thin base coat while the base is still 'green' - when it can't be dented with your fingertip, but can be scratched with your fingernail.
Make sure the base coat is well worked with a wooden float to compact it and close up any cracks, and keep it misted for a day or so; that should be enough to get it ready for the skim.
And work the skim coat well, too; you need to push the aggregate, water and lime into the not-quite-dry base coat (this sort of work used to be called 'coat and a half' plastering).
As for knowing when all's ready for painting, the colour should give you a clue; when the lime has carbonated to a pure white, even when you wet it, then you can limewash it or use a distemper or other breathable paint.

 

[thiambal]

As for knowing when all's ready for painting, the colour should give you a clue; when the lime has carbonated to a pure white, even when you wet it, then you can limewash it or use a distemper or other breathable paint.

How about lining paper and a breathable emulsion - will moisture just lift the paper?

In terms of leaving something there for the future, wouldn't you be better off closing the opening with something like clay board attached to battens and then lime plastering over that? It's a lot easier to remove a piece of skimmed board and battens than to remove bricks that someone has lovingly laid.

Good idea, but too late - never mind, bricks only took an hour to lay and it gave me a fist practice at brick laying with lime mortar.

If the chimney stack is still there make sure you provide an air vent, otherwise next year you will be asking why you have damp.

OF course I remembered this one - nice vent hole left.

Cheers for all the advice chaps! Any tips of the best tools to apply and consolidate the top coat with?