Damp Proofing

[JohnCalwell]

Hello everyone.
I am planning restoring a Listed Lodge circa 1830 and I have a question about damp proofing.

I understand that the original building would have had wooden floorboards and lime plaster on the internal walls.

Since then the floors have been concreted and the walls have been tanked using a membrane and plastered using regular plaster.
I understand that the use of lime plaster would help the walls breath and restore them back to how they were originally designed.

My question is….if we removed all the existing plaster and DPM and replastered the exposed stone with lime plaster would we also need to remove the cement floor? How would the two interact?

It has been suggested by our Architect that both the walls and the floor are tanked with Vandex, which could be a simpler solution but it would not be restoring the building back to how it was, which I would like to do.

ANY advice would be really appreciated.
Many thanks.
John

 

[Roger H]

Hi John.

I'd be surprised if the Conservation Officer wants to see it 'vandexed' - I'd maybe think about getting a different architect.

I'd suggest having a look at the damp FAQs on this website, but assuming external ground levels are lower than those inside, it would do no harm to re-do with lime plaster on internal walls. This would help regardless of lifting the concrete floor. Has the existing barrier method on the walls failed or are you just keen to return the building to a more traditional set of materials?

 

[MatthewC]

I'd maybe think about getting a different architect.

Seconded. The 900-year old Grade I listed church here had an architect who passed on an unsolicited quote to do an injected DPC in all the limestone walls! He's now sacked (thank goodness) and replaced by someone more sensitive and knowledgeable.

assuming external ground levels are lower than those inside, it would do no harm to re-do with lime plaster on internal walls. This would help regardless of lifting the concrete floor.

Also seconded. If you are intending to remove all the plaster and membrane from the walls, then using lime plaster is a no-brainer for the long term benefit of the building, but do let the walls dry out first. If you really fancy some hard work, then dig up the complete concrete floor and either replace with limecrete or else refit the (presumably suspended) wooden floor. The story of my limecrete floor is told here: http://houseintheenchantedforest.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/fitting-limecrete-floor-part-1.html and subsequent entries.

Matthew

 

[JohnCalwell]

Thank you both very much for your suggestions, it is really appreciated.

As always this leads on to other questions....

1) We intend on selling the house after completion. Would a contractor applying Lime Plaster be able to give a guarantee? I know that buyers often ask for guarantees when buying.
2) The winter is here now, if we need to let the walls dry would we need to aid that drying process (e.g. using space heaters)
3) Budget, as always, is a consideration. It is only a small building (the wall surfaces in question total around 100m2) but what, in % terms would you consider the cost difference between Vandex and then normal plaster versus lime plaster?

I know the last question is a difficult one to answer but any ideas would be great.

On Wednesday I am meeting a contractor that specialises in old buildings, so I hope that he will have some great ideas on the whole project.

Thank you very much for your help!

John