Damp granite

[mills]

I've recently bought a granite house built in 1700's and 'modernised' in the 1960's.
I'm looking for opinions on how to progress with some damp problems.
The interior of an exterior wall in question has serious signs of penetrating and rising damp, is cement rendered internally, with salts blown through.
The exterior of this wall is stone and had been pointed with hard cement and the gutters don't fit properly. Both these issues are being taken care of (lime pointing and new gutters).
I am fairly sold on dry-lining the interior with thermal board.
My question is; should I wait to see the results of the lime and new gutters (if the wall dries out) before moving on, or proceed. Also should I remove the damp interior render to stone or leave it in place and cover with the frame work and board?
Any replies would be very appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Mark]

If you dry line it will interfere with the wall drying out - I would leave it a while.

 

[Gervase]

Do remove the render internally, too. The wall may have a rubble fill which will dry much better with both sides made breathable, and it will also allow the mortar to dry out.
If you're set on dry-lining, you can press ahead now. Try not to have the battens touching the granite - use a membrane between them and the stone - and remember to allow for ventilation.

 

[mills]

Thanks for your input. The walls are rubble/granite, packed with clay rendered in cement (internally) and wet! How long would i expect to see results/improvements (if there are any) after the lime pointing/gutter work is finished and internal cement is removed?

 

[Gervase]

How long is a piece of string :wink: ?
Seriously, it can take a couple of months for the effects to become clear, particularly at this time of year when the air is humid and condensation is more likely. But it can also be apparent within a week or so; much depends on the internal structure of the walls, the level of saturation, the source of the water...

 

[nick wilder]

It is most important to make sure that the outside soil level is well down below floor level. Dig a trench if neccessary by wall. Also make sure the gutters are fixed and get the water away from the house and make sure trees are not touching the walls so allowing a good air circulation. Rentokill told us this 30 years ago and having done it all has been well, saved us hundreds then and probably thousands now, but you need a summer to dry out probably. best of luck.

 

[mills]

I've posted this question on another thread also, but if you don't mind.....i've never seen lime in action. I realise the mix is porous, but i'm concerned that in heavy rain periods the interior actually gets wet, before it evaporates out.
Suppose my walls are 2 ft thick, granite stone exterior, clay/stone/rubble construction, lime pointed exterior, lime rendered interior.
Assuming everything works as supposed to, does the water penetrate to the interior and be actually wet and then evaporate? Or will it evaporate out before the inside gets wet?
Thanks.

 

[Lime]

I've posted this question on another thread also, but if you don't mind.....i've never seen lime in action. I realise the mix is porous, but i'm concerned that in heavy rain periods the interior actually gets wet, before it evaporates out.
Suppose my walls are 2 ft thick, granite stone exterior, clay/stone/rubble construction, lime pointed exterior, lime rendered interior.
Assuming everything works as supposed to, does the water penetrate to the interior and be actually wet and then evaporate? Or will it evaporate out before the inside gets wet?
Thanks.

Whether the inside becomes wetter than at present depends on the balance between the ingress of water and evaporation on either side of the wall.
Lime mortar will be able to evaporate water much faster than cement so should improve the condition of the wall.