copper roof flashing.

[robgil]

i am trying to find some copper roof flashing but cannot , i can however find sheet copper. what would flashing normally be? 1mm , 1.5 mm? any ideas?

 

[Jon Maine]

This page gives you weights, gauges and thicknesses

http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/fundamentals/dimensions.html

This page discusses applications

http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/intro.html

Should find what you need there ok.

 

[chuckey]

My lean-to conservatory was flashed to the main wall using very thin copper sheet (20 SWG?) and the wind peeled it all backwards. All gone now. I did not read the web site properly, but just a reminder that there will a limit (1m?) on the linear length of copper you can put into the brickwork, else the thermal contraction and expansion will loosen it.
Frank

 

[Feltwell]

Any particular reason why you'd want to use copper instead of lead?

 

[robgil]

thanks guys , very helpful. i want to use it purely for aesthetic reasons , i will hopefully be using copper rainwater goods and copper flashing on the roof seemed like a good idea.

 

[Penners]

I don't think I'd fancy the job of flashing with copper (pause for others to think about smutty replies.....).

You can bash lead into shape and into place, and it stays there. I reckon copper would tend to bounce back.

 

[Feltwell]

I don't think I'd fancy the job of flashing with copper (pause for others to think about smutty replies.....).

No need Penners - I believe George Michael has already proven, in a park in America, that it's not a good idea!

Serious note - I agree, lead is much softer than copper and therefore more workable. I don't see that having lead flashing and copper rainwater goods would look odd. I also suspect you'd have problems with the run-off from the copper flashing staining whatever it passes over.

 

[robgil]

ive just checked the price of lead flashing. :shock: and copper seems to be more expensive. :shock: copper is still quite a soft metal and when it turns green it would look lovely but i didnt think about staining , its going over cedar shingles.

 

[Feltwell]

ive just checked the price of lead flashing. :shock: and copper seems to be more expensive. :shock: copper is still quite a soft metal and when it turns green it would look lovely but i didnt think about staining , its going over cedar shingles.

Yep - copper is about $6800 per tonne at the moment, lead is around $2200 per tonne. I buy a lot of copper as electrical cable through my work.

Copper is soft, and I think you could use it as flashing, but it won't be nearly as easy to form as lead. Even lead can cause staining - you're supposed to use something called patination oil when you put new flashing in, which reduces it. I suspect though that with copper no matter what you do you would end up with green staining on your cedar shingles eventually.

Copper rainwater goods sounds lovely, but are you sure it's appropriate to your house? Would cast iron not look more in keeping?

 

[robgil]

not sure Feltwell , i just need one 10m long run of copper along my lean-to out the back , although its not a traditional way to do rainwater goods i do think it blends in better to a shingled roof. it is purely a case of personal taste rather than using materials that are in keeping. i dont think it will look out of place when it has a nice dull patina especially with the wooden roof however i wont make a definite decision until i put the roof on , at least then i can make a better judgement as to how it will look.it may not be in keeping but i dont think it will look out of keeping if that makes any sense.

 

[Feltwell]

it may not be in keeping but i dont think it will look out of keeping if that makes any sense.

Yes, makes perfect sense - not as it would have been originally, but doesn't look out of place. Ultimately it's down to personal taste with an unlisted building I guess, you're not doing anything that can't easily be changed in future and you're not taking anything original away from the building. I personally think copper looks really good once it's weathered down, so I can see the attraction.

Have you seen this old thread?

http://periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6604&hilit=coppagutta

If it ends up being too expensive, have you looked at Lindab Rainline? It's lovely stuff - I put new cast iron back on my place, which cost a bomb, but I used some of the pre-finished Lindab product on some dormers, as on those the only way to access the guttering for re-painting is (very expensive) scaffolding. It's great stuff and looks much better than plastic.

http://www.lindab.co.uk/entrance.asp?LangRef=12&Area=6

 

[Lime]

When making comparisons between lead and copper you need to remember that copper as a replacement for (or instead of) lead doesn't need to be so thick and therefore is not so expensive as it may at first appear.

Copper is able to be hammered into much more complicated shapes than lead and is longer lasting in general.
What has to be remembered is that bending and hammering copper (or "working" to use the correct term) causes the copper to harden.
Copper can be made very soft again by the application of heat (lots of it) until it is cherry red then quenched quickly in cold water.
The quenching is important.
Working is very, very easy with soft copper but every hammer blow and bend slowly hardens it again so heat needs to be used often.
DON'T heat the copper in place on the roof!

As a matter of interest, bending copper pipe with springs can be made much easier if heat treated beforehand too.

 

[robgil]

isnt that annealing? a great way to put a bend in larger pipes without creasing them with a bender.

 

[philpjuk100]

It is not necessary to quench copper when annealing,heating to red heat anneals it,quenching it can alter its appearance put plays no part in softening it,phil.