conserving our remaining original windows

[tycarregydwr]

We have just two original windows left - the rest were all replaced with aluminium frames in the 1960s. The remaining two are original - 1900ish Victorian wood frames with single glazing. One has had secondary glazing fitted (aluminium) one has nothing and as it is in the bathroom, it is damn cold! So I need to sort out some kind of secondary glazing for that one. Additionally, the windows themselves need fairly urgent attention. They appear to be in reasonably good condition - although I think they are no longer open-able. But the paint is peeling badly, so they need to be repainted quite soon or they'll rot. Please talk to me about painting old wooden windows. Do I need to completely strip the existing paint, or can I just gently scrap the loose bits off and them paint over what remains? Can you recommend paint? They were, and are, white, which obviously we want to replicate. They are on the non-weather wall of the house, though being in west Wales they do get wet on occassion!


Thank you

 

[middi]

Just scrape off and use sand paper to remove all loose paint ( you may need to apply some gentle heat to loosen and remove cracked paint from flat surfaces).
Use aluminium primer to seal and protect all surfaces, apply undercoat and finish with final coat. Just use modern paints and just follow their instructions.
There is no need to complicate things, just a need to protect windows.

Middi

 

[tycarregydwr]

Ok, that's certainly straightforward, thank you. So you don't think there's a compelling reason to avoid modern materials and paints for this application?

 

[Lime]

For long term care of wooden windows a linseed oil based paint is best.
Modern paints form a non-breathing plastic coat which won't last long. (I've only been painting for 50 years but that is my experience of modern style paints)
Meanwhile it will hold any water that gets behind the paint leading to wood rot.
Several years ago I used Holkham paints on my wooden windows and they still look good and show no signs of the usual cracks and bubbles associated with modern paints over time.
For my convenience I used a modern paint (two different makes) on the previously painted stone sills and pillars at the same time.
Need I say that which still looks best?... the sills and pillars now have parts where the paint has flaked off even after a careful preparation of the surface.

 

[jocelyn plummer]

My understanding is that Linseed is most effective on new wood. Whilst it is fine to use it on old wooden frames you need to make sure that they are well sanded removing as much of the old paints as possible.

 

[middi]

I agree with Jocelyn, applying oils, stains etc on an old and ex-painted window is not a good idea.
AS to traditionally painted windows they are a pain in the a*$e and irrelevant if modern materials ,or not, are being used. They all need regular inspection and maintenance to keep tjem in good condition.

Middi

 

[Lime]

As with all paint you need to prepare the surface correctly.
With any paint the wood needs to be stripped of old paint before painting begins otherwise it will fail very quickly.
However, as I have used almost every kind of paint on old windows over the years, I can assure anyone that linseed oil paint properly applied on old or new exterior wood will outlast modern paints by many years.
I didn't believe it myself until I tried it.
I would not use a modern paint again.

 

[ladytmwright]

Hi there, personally I would scrape off/sand as much of the old paint off as poss. Any exposed wood would need a couple of coats of undercoat, then re-paint windows using a good quality period style paint designed for exteriors, making sure you sand between coats. Personally, I would use an off-white rather than stark white as this always looks much better on a period property! Also, regarding the draught element in your bathroom, have you thought about having bespoke interior shutters made? I was lucky enough to move into my house with all the rear and side sash windows remaining. For security reasons and to help cut draughts, we had shutters especially made by a local company (we are based in Stockport). They fitted perfectly and to cut costs down, were made in MDF, so I could paint them any colour of my choice! I would be happy to give you details of the company if you should need it but not sure if they would cover Wales. Good luck!

 

[plasticpigeon]

I have been tempted by linseed paints due to their excellent reputation for long life and ease of maintenance, but have not tried them yet, mainly because I have heard they take ages to dry. Is this correct?

 

[Lime]

I have been tempted by linseed paints due to their excellent reputation for long life and ease of maintenance, but have not tried them yet, mainly because I have heard they take ages to dry. Is this correct?

Yes that is so.
Last year I was unable to use linseed oil paint on any outside woodwork because of the weather.
I have two 7 year old modern sash windows in my new extension painted in modern paint crying out to be repainted.
They were "correctly painted" by the builder with modern primer, 2 undercoats and 3 gloss applications and sanded down between coats.
The paint has almost disappeared off the sills and is badly cracked on all wood joints and elsewhere.
(I painted my other windows with Linseed oil paint in the same year and they are fine)
As a temporary measure I painted linseed oil directly over the broken paint to penetrate into the wood to give it some protection.

 

[tycarregydwr]

Thanks for further replies.

Oh dear, it sounds like linseed paint may not work for us - it's really quite rare to get more than a day or two without any rain, throughout the year.

I had not considered interior shutters. It is an interesting option, but my instinct is no, simply because in the winter the bathroom has been SO cold due to the window, that we have to keep the curtain drawn all day just to stop frosty breath. So I'd really like a solution that doesn't cut down on the light, so that it can be in place all night and day without impacting the use of the room.

 

[skier-hughes]

Plastic sheet loosely fixed over and away the window to allow ventilation for drying but keeping any rain off might work?
I love holkhams paint, but luckily, my painting is all done indoors with new windows ready to replace the 1960's aluminium ones

 

[Moneypit]

For a faster drying linseed paint I have found that the stuff we have bought from http://www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/ performs very well. We have used both this and Holkhams and find that the LPC stuff also has a smoother finish to it. Their website seems refreshingly honest about its claims. The faster drying is achieved by the addition of pine resin apparently. There is a downside in that the storage jar or tin does skin over quickly and means some careful removal is required before the next application. It goes on very thinly initially but because it 'tacks' quickly, a second, thicker coat can be applied almost straight away.

 

[Lime]

That is interesting, Moneypit, I'll have to try it.
Of course linseed oil based paints of yesteryear also included many added oils to speed the drying process or to cut down costs.
Years ago I read an artist's guide to painting with oils wherein it listed the affects of other oils to linseed and various mixtures where they make a difference to finish, drying, endurance, attachment etc. of oil paintings.
I'll try and find it if I still have it.
I do remember pure linseed always came out best except for drying.

 

[Moneypit]

Another benefit of the LPC paint that I have found is that it is much better at resisting mould growth than pure linseed oil paint such as Holkhams. This aspect is quite well explained on the LPC website, definitely worth a read. Our location is right on the coast and consequently frequently damp, so for us probably more prone to the problem of the rather unsightly black spots of mould growth. It does brush/wipe off quite readily but much of our woodwork is inaccessible without scaffold. The most recent wood painted is up at gutter level where fascia boards and recessed soffits have been stripped back of all old paint, to bare wood. Some of it has been done for nearly three years now and it still looks just as good. The wood is mostly original from the 1886 construction and was a joy to work with although I had to patch in some areas that had suffered from rot and worm.