Chain link fencing and fencing posts

[Ushy M]

Hello folks, not strictly a period property question, though it refers to the land on our period property! We have planning consent to repair/replace some chain link fencing at the foot of our garden. Rather than bed the posts directly into concrete, I've seen a method where short lengths of plastic water or drainpipe of about 6" diameter are bedded into the concrete and then when set, the posts are concreted into the inside of the pipe. I presume this method is to minimise the difficulty of keeping the posts upright while they set which would be advantageous in the circumstances we're working in. Has anybody out there used this method - if so could they shed any more light?

A second query - the boundary line was originally planted with beech saplings, presumably to form a hedge but these were never pruned or laid and have formed a long, narrow stand of trees up to 40 feet high! If some of these were cut back to ground or near ground level, would they produce coppice -like shoots which would fill out the boundary itself, or would they just sit there as sulking bare posts? This part of the boundary is adjacent to a 'Pocket Park' where the local yoof hang out to drink vodka and smoke weed and we'd like to keep them orf our land if at all poss!

Any thoughts on either topic would be gratefuly received.

 

[Penners]

I believe mature beech doesn't particularly like to be coppiced - you can kill it if you cut the whole thing right back to ground level.

Are the plants all proper trees - ie: with one trunk each? If so, then I fear you may be stuffed for the coppicing idea.

However, if they have multiple stems, then the usual practice is to cut all the stems back to near the ground except one per plant. This one stem will keep the plant alive while it is throwing up multiple stems from the stumps. Once this has happened, you can cut out the remaining old stem.

No guarantees though - strictly own risk!

 

[worms]

Are you planning on wood, metal or concrete posts?

You could fill in the gaps between the beech trees with new beech hedging plants (after fixing up the chain link). Holly would also be good to keep the yoof out and a mixed holly/beech hedge with standard trees growing above it would be great!

 

[Lime]

Holly would also be good to keep the yoof out and a mixed holly/beech hedge with standard trees growing above it would be great!

Pyrocanthus would do a better job at keeping the yoof out and is much easier to train.

 

[biffvernon]

Instead of cutting some of the 40 foot trees to ground level and hoping they will sprout under the shade of their neighbours, try cutting all of them to 20 foot, which is less likely to kill them.

But if they are alongside a public space they may be subject to Tree Preservation Orders.

 

[Tom]

You could plant a double row of native hedgerow - that will keep the chavs out, look pretty and provide habitat and food for the birds As a bonus, you'll still get your view through it in the winter when it's too cold for the chavs to congregate outdoors (whilst remaining secure!) but give you the protection and privacy you want in the summer

Jaqy

 

[worms]

Of course if you make that double row beech and holly, you are using a native solution, retain cover in winter, have a food source for the wildlife and prickly enough for the chavs.

(OK, before anyone gets smart, I know there is an argument that beech was introduced by the Romans, but after 2000 years that is native enough for me!)

 

[Nemesis]

Alternatively, you could go hang out with the local yoof... sounds like fun to me.

PS I would advise caution to anyone considering planting a holly hedge. Hard work to maintain, the wretched prickly leaves get everywhere and are very hard to clear up and dispose of. I speak with feeling...

 

[Manny]

Bear in mind how much water those trees suck up from the ground. If you cut them back there's a chance (depending on what the make up of the ground is) that the water table level will rise or the ground will expand, etc.

 

[Ushy M]

Many thanks folks for the ideas on the planting - I will definitely plant something native and spiky in between any gaps left by thinning out the 'weedy' beech specimens.

Meanwhile, any thoughts out there on the concrete footings for the fenceposts? We will be using metal posts and chainlink - unlovely I know but the planning permission (which we inherited when we bought the house is for like-for-like replacement). The remaining boundary on that side is formed of a 70-odd feet of pretty ancient stone wall (may be older than the house so more than 350 years) which Mr M has actually quite enjoyed repairing (with lime of course, and old stone which we've found lying in the garden).

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

Your suggested scheme of casting in a pipe, then casting the fence post into the pipe sounds like doing the job twice to me. It will also be less secure than a one-shot fix. You've got to align and support the posts sooner or later, so why not do it in one go? A couple of lengths of 2x1 hammered obliquely into the ground and screwed or clamped to the post will hold everything in place whilst the concrete goes off. If you make the posts overlength you can cut them all off to the same level after installation, so one less thing to line up. I'm assuming you're using steel angle for the posts.
I'm sure you've checked with your planning dept to see if they'll accept an alternative to chainlink?