Cast iron sash pulleys

[jsmac]

Hello,

I have stripped many decades and layers of paint off of several of the original pulleys from our sash windows. Remarkably they've held up very well and other than some light pitting and surface rust they're in good condition.

Can I use a rust converter (ie. Hammerite or similar) to neutralise the surface rust on them or is there something else I should be doing?

Many thanks.

Scott

 

[plasticpigeon]

They are usually pretty sturdy. How about just wirebrushing them? Usually the plates are painted the same colour as the window frame after they have been put back in, a bit like hinges on doors, but the pulleys should be left unpainted.

 

[MatthewC]

Have you checked how worn the bush is?

I had some pulleys (pullies??) which seemed OK at first but then I found the wear in the bush which meant they had to be replaced.

 

[88v8]

Jenolite is fine for the rust.
Then a metal primer.
Then paint as for the rest of the window.
As Matthew said, paint the backing plates but not the wheels.

Ivor

 

[jsmac]

Thanks everyone.

I wire brushed the loose rust off but couldn't remove it all. I'll look at Jenolite - thanks for the suggestion.

The bushes look sound but admittedly I'm not entirely sure what I should be looking for.

The suggestion of painting the plates dovetails nicely with a followup question. The glazier who has beautifully resorted the lower sash leadlight has suggested leaving the part of the box that the sashes slide in unpainted and using linseed oil instead. I've stripped the many layers of paint back to the wood so this is an option and the grain of the wood is really nice but would like to hear your thoughts on this.

Thanks again.

Scott

 

[Feltwell]

Mine had had it - the holes where the pulley axle sits into the frame of the pulley had worn oval. I replaced them with these, I thought they were nicer than the shiny lacquered brass most firms sell.

https://www.broughtons.com/store/product/86385/sash-pulley-antique-satin-brass/

 

[plasticpigeon]

That's no fun Feltwell! When I first started restoring my house, I drilled the holes larger, and turned up a new oversized pin on the lathe and peened the end over for a good as new original pulley. I have since lost a lot of motivation and I don't think I would go to the effort these days.

As far as unpainted linings goes, I don't know. I suppose you could woodgrain finish the plates, or just leave them metal and wax them to stop them rusting.

 

[88v8]

The wheels should not be overly sloppy on the pins, that said they were never Rolls standard.
Like other moving parts of the house - locks, hinges, latches - they will appreciate a drop of light oil occasionally

Unpainted where they slide... are they hardwood boxes? No? If not, I'd paint what's visible, and leave unpainted what's not visible, but that is purely for ease of sliding.
So one would paint the upper part of the lower sash box with the sash closed, and the bottom six inches for water protection, but leave unpainted the section between. The outer face - the sliding surface - of the sash bead is painted only for the bottom six inches, don't paint the top.

The box of the upper sash, paint the top six inches, and the whole of the bottom with the sash closed. Paint the parting bead in the same way.

The left-bare bits of boxing and bead, rub over with a wax candle before fitting the sashes. Also wax the sides of the sashes.

In decorative terms, yes I suppose one could leave the top of the inner box unpainted, and use linseed. It might look twee. Or if there are other elements of the room's woodwork that you plan to treat in the same way, it could look fine. But in the end if you don't like it you can always apply paint later.

But either way, wax & leave unpainted the parts of the boxes where the sashes slide.

Ivor

 

[Feltwell]

That's no fun Feltwell! When I first started restoring my house, I drilled the holes larger, and turned up a new oversized pin on the lathe and peened the end over for a good as new original pulley. I have since lost a lot of motivation and I don't think I would go to the effort these days.

Blimey, there's dedication! I don't have access to a lathe though, at least not the metal working kind. I suppose I could drift the original pin out, build up the hole with some weld and then re-drill it - but to be honest they're pretty grotty and I'm happy to start again.

On the first window I did I fitted shiny shiny brass pulleys from Mightons -

https://www.mightonproducts.com/lacquered-brass-pvd-face-plate-1-3-4-brass-wheel-square-ends

They run beautifully, having bearings built in - but - they looked wrong from the start, just too perfect and shiny. Fast forward a few years and they look a bit grotty where corrosion has started under the lacquer, but not grotty in a nice aged way, just grotty in a "new cheap thing that looks tatty" way.

The Broughtons ones are a bit irregular in size, not always totally square or flat faceplate, and the finish is much nicer. No bearings but they run OK, bearings are overkill I think.

 

[Flyfisher]

That's no fun Feltwell! When I first started restoring my house, I drilled the holes larger, and turned up a new oversized pin on the lathe and peened the end over for a good as new original pulley. I have since lost a lot of motivation and I don't think I would go to the effort these days.

Wow, dedication indeed. Not tempted to fit a small bearing while you were at it, for the ultimate in smooth operation?

 

[paulc]

I don't have access to a lathe though, at least not the metal working kind. I suppose I could drift the original pin out, build up the hole with some weld and then re-drill it

A better and easier way would be to bore out the pulleys and fit sintered bronze bushes (sintered bronze will retain lubricants longer than plain bushings). Welding cast iron can be problematic at the best of times, and trying to fill in a hole neatly is far from easy.

The pins would probably be worn, so it would make sense to replace these at the same time.