Casement windows repair / rebuild

[mooner]

First post here, Hello! I've been searching the forum for a few months and have picked up some very useful tips.

We moved into an 1880's stone cottage in a conservation area earlier this year, it's basically sound but hasn't really been touched inside for 20+ years and needs some tlc. This last few months we've been working on the neglected garden and landscaping, and rectifying various minor maintenance issues. We'll begin work inside later this year when the weather forces us indoors.

The original part of the house has had replacement sash windows in the last few years, however the side extension has casement windows which are in need of attention and we don't want to replace them.
I'll be replacing cills, repairing frame damage and replacing putty, however, one, possibly two of the openers I'll need to either rebuild, or extensively repair

My question is in respect of the openers:
Can you buy off-the-shelf timber profile to build the openers, or would I need to have it machined by a local timber yard?
How difficult would it be to make the profile myself with a router? (keen DIYer since buying our first home in the late 1980's but never had occasion to use a router, despite renovating several houses since).

Pictures of the window and a rough sketch of the profile with approximate dimensions:



Any guidance appreciated, thanks.

 

[Stevers]

Last year I acquired a cheap second hand plunge router which has proved really useful, but I wouldn't want to tackle that without a router table and some specialised router bits.

In the past sash sections were available, but no longer in your average timber yard. A local joiner could do it easily enough, and joint it up for you, hopefully in slow grown pine or hardwood. I always soak softwood in clear preservative particularly the ends, then prime all round with a thinned primer including in the joints before assembly. The primer can be a heavily thinned 'self-undercoating' top coat - the paint needs to soak in for adhesion, and not just sit on the top where it can flake off. All the paints I use externally are 'vapour permeable' (or equivalent in marketing speak).

For a longer lasting job consider using one of the modern hybrid polymer glazing compounds rather than linseed oil. This is the one I'm using and it's paintable:

Glazing Putty Sealants - 3C Sealants Paintable Glazing Putty Hybrid Polymer -

buy mastics silicones sealants, shower and bath waterproofing materials online

www.sealantsonline.co.uk

 

[mooner]

Thanks @Stevers - that seems like a really sound preparation process, I appreciate the detail you've gone into.

I thought I might have been ambitious in making the mouldings myself, I'll leave that to someone else. I'll definitely be buying a router sometime soon for when work moves indoors, any tips on what to look out for?

BTW, nice part of the world the Mendips, I'll be passing through there tomorrow on my way to Shepton Flea. Cheers.

 

[Stevers]

Yes, the market for 'Giant Fleas'! I have a lot of time for North Somerset and the interesting shops of 'Norton Radstock' in particular. Toolstation in Paulton gets regular visits.

I bought an old Black & Decker on Ebay that I collected from Frome. Have since spent far more on a router set and a 'biscuit cutter' bit which I've used to joint wider boards. I buy pre-loved if I'm not sure how how much use a tool will get. I find that whatever used big name kit I buy (Viking, Black & Decker, Bosch etc.) it's proved plenty good enough for me and has been excellent value. Re-homing even sounder than re-cycling!

You could try Jim Catley for your window. He is in the old tin chapel opposite the Anglo in Shepton.

 

[mooner]

Thanks for the recommendations, I'm all for a bit of re-homing, hence a trip to the giant flea tomorrow.

I like Frome and go there a few times a year, Radstock and Paulton are places I haven't had occasion to visit for a long time. I'm on the coastal side of North Somerset, just outside of Bristol. Cheers.