Burnt Sand Mastic - For Overhead Horizontal Gaps - Defying Gravity

[AnalogKid]

I'm repairing some gaps around various sash windows - and mixed my first batch of Burnt Sand mastic
For Horizontal work - Its easy to use - for example on the stone cill to prevent water creeping under the Wood Cill

For some of the vertical work; - the very narrow gaps in the second photo it can be made to 'go on' (Ive ended up using my finger to push it it, then cleaning up the 'loose mess' with a brush
(Some form of piping bag might work here)?

From the first photo - For the overhead vertical - I've not had any luck - Gravity is winning
I'm using a 4 Part by volume paving sand to 1 Part Boiled Linseed (Thank you to @Feltwell)

Is this type of crack 'too big'
Is there a different mix ratio I should try
Or possibly another additive to create a 'stickier' mix

Or is this a job for a mortar of some type?

I'm going back out to try again, and will use a hawk or possibly a long flat piece of old parting bead, and load the beads with sand mastic and push it up into the over head gap

 

[88v8]

As it doesn't need to be breathable and you can overpaint it I would use one of those evil flexible frame sealers in a tube/gun, just make sure it's one that's paintable.

 

[malcolm]

For pushing pointing or mastic into a gap use a pointing finger (photo). It's a table knife cut down to just under the width of the gap. You would need to scrape the gap out to wider than the pointing finger, then put the mortar flat on a mortar board, pick it up with the finger, then force it into the gap. It's a slow process when working vertically or overhead but it's easy to pick up the technique.

I would argue any sealant used next to wood would ideally want to be breathable.

 

[Zebra]

For pushing pointing or mastic into a gap use a pointing finger (photo). It's a table knife cut down to just under the width of the gap. You would need to scrape the gap out to wider than the pointing finger, then put the mortar flat on a mortar board, pick it up with the finger, then force it into the gap. It's a slow process when working vertically or overhead but it's easy to pick up the technique.

I would argue any sealant used next to wood would ideally want to be breathable.

View attachment 11638

I want to see what tool you made out of the matching fork and spoon.

 

[88v8]

I would argue any sealant used next to wood would ideally want to be breathable.

Yes, but not under there. Water should not be running under the brick arch and down the window.