Boiler/Cylinder

[atlasfever]

Hi folks,

This is not a period specific question, but one referring to the boiler/cylinder.

Here's the issue (it's a bit complicated in terms of the background, so I'll skip who owns/buying, etc):
1. I want to negotiate with freeholder on the subject of the boiler/cylinder, as it was not specifically covered under the home buyer's report
2. He is had a "corgi (sp?)" guy in to check that the gas stuff is safe, etc
3. However, I don't think this inspection has anything to do with the basics of a. are the 2 units old and need to be replaced soon? b. are they old and inefficient? c. other issues that I am clueless about...
4. So, who do you call in to understand if new devices are needed? And, does it cost £? I'm guessing if I found someone who sells the boilers/cylinders, they would come for free
5. The point here is to negotiate on the price of the devices as I'm guessing the devices must end up costing a few £k and not interested in surprises.

Thanks, A

 

[Owain]

If you ask the seller the make/model of the boiler you will be able to google it or ask here/elsewhere. In particular you will be able to search the SEDBUK boiler efficiency database.

 

[atlasfever]

Hi,

The owner just gave me the gas safety record for the boiler. I believe the boiler is about 13 years old, and the make and model is a Baxi Solo PFL 60. It has a "D" rating (78%), according to an efficiency rating table that I found online. It's a bit hard to understand though, as I have the make/model from the gas safety record that was just done this month, and online, there seems to be a number identifier too, such as Baxi Solo "3" PFL 60.

Anyway, the gas safety record indicates "RS" in the Flue Type, that it has 12 kW/H or Btu/h for the operating pressure in mbars or heat input. I think it is non-condensing, though no clue what this means.

But, this is just the gas safety record. I guess the guy also checked the Hob, but not the large water cylinder.

....confused. I am basically trying to figure out if I should be looking at getting a new boiler (& cylinder) when I purchase and then do a huge gutting/refurb of the flat. And, if so, I want to raise it to this to the seller.
Thanks for feedback, A

 

[Flyfisher]

Have you had a copy of the EPC for the property (Energy performance Certificate)? This might give you some indicators of basic energy efficiency of the existing system.

 

[atlasfever]

Ok, thank you for your help. I'm walking blind on this one....and, imagine costs of replacing both items are (gulp)... high.

I have attached the EPC for the flat, 2 screenshots.
Thanks

 

[88v8]

If it works OK, leave it alone. The boiler in our previous house was 21 years old, it worked fine and I would never have replaced it.
It could cost perhaps £4-5,000 to replace, you can invest that money at 5% to offset any inefficiency in running costs, and you'll still have the £5,000.
Better to focus on loft/wall insulation, and turn down the stat. We kept the house at 61F and in the winter we wore woolies.

I'd worry more about whether the system has a proper level of corosion inhibitor, if the rads ever need bleeding then something is wrong with the system - not the boiler - that needs looking into.

Ivor

 

[JoceAndChris]

We ( and a lot of others in our Highgate building) used a very good guy in Herts who travels into the city every day. I don't hesitate to recommend him, he's honest and reliable and would be able to give you a good assessment of your system.

We ended up replacing ours which was around 20 years old, it cost around 4 k with him doing the work in 2006. Let me know if you'd like his contact details.

Good advice above though, if it works stay with it for a few years I'd say.

 

[LadyArowana]

I also vote for the "if it isn't broken don't fix it" option, but with a caveat. From your description it sounds as though you have an older model boiler which heats the hot water which is then stored in a tank ( which I assume may or may not have an immersion heater as well ). With a condensing boiler it is not necessary to have a tank. Since they work on a "flow through" system the water is heated in real time as you are using it. Space being at a premium in London, gaining the area that previously housed the tank for something else might be a very good thing, particularly if you have the upheaval of other major work happening anyway.

We had previously had a system that sounds similar to yours, and when I was planning the renovation work I had assumed I needed to factor space for the tank, but was very very glad not to need one. We now have a wall mounted boiler neatly hidden in the kitchen and a much larger built in wardrobe. For us keeping the old boiler was not an option, it started to misbehave ( kept cutting out ) and when I had a gas-safe approved man "look" at it he condemmed it immediately as it was kicking out horrible levels of CO*. The venting arrangement was not up to current regulations either.....I think the only reason I am still around is that all the windows were really leaky too and so there was plenty of fresh air coming in, I had had a few headaches, but thought it was just jet lag. Engineer was not happy with me being flippant and saying that I didn't think going to sleep and not waking up was such a bad way to go either, some people just have no sense of humour.

*Carbon Monoxide, not Conservation Officers

 

[Owain]

I also vote for the "if it isn't broken don't fix it" option, but with a caveat. From your description it sounds as though you have an older model boiler which heats the hot water which is then stored in a tank ( which I assume may or may not have an immersion heater as well ). With a condensing boiler it is not necessary to have a tank. Since they work on a "flow through" system the water is heated in real time as you are using it. Space being at a premium in London, gaining the area that previously housed the tank for something else might be a very good thing, particularly if you have the upheaval of other major work happening anyway.

You are confusing a condensing boiler with a combi boiler. Condensing boilers are more energy-efficient. Combi-boilers provide instant hot water.

Advantages of combi-boilers include losing the hot water cylinder and getting mains pressure hot water for showers.

Disadvantages of combi-boilers include losing the hot water cylinder (no backup immersion heater), limited hot water flow especially in winter, and liability to poor mains pressure (especially in a flat if all the water is from roof tanks). You can forget running a "waterfall" type shower from a combi, or in many cases two taps at the same time.

 

[Lime]

My feelings are that if you want to negotiate on an old house/flat purchase expect most things to be old: it isn't a new house!

 

[atlasfever]

Ok, thanks everyone for your feedback.
Helpful indeed

 

[philpjuk100]

Plumbing in cylinders can be easy if you have a saw!

 

[88v8]

:lol: :lol:

 

[mr-squirrel]

Ahahhhah :lol: that is awesome!

Makes adjusting the stat easier.