Best finishing products for old quarry tiles

[masochists-r-us]

Thanks for various suggestions provided previously, but in the end I had a lucky break and managed to get a large qty of very old red 9 x 9 quarries. The question is what is the best way to finish them as there is a vast array of products out there ?
They don't need to be breathable since they will sit on a concrete floor. I'm not a fan of the 'wet look', but I would like to see a nice rich sheen on them.These are for the kitchen,by the way.

 

[mardinor]

HG Golvpolish is the best by far

 

[Baron de Gynes]

We've got some of these in the porch and, having had some necessary building works completed* I need to refinish them. I was thinking about the equivalent of Cardinal red polish that you paint on and leave to soak in, but I'm not certain whether that's really the colour/finish I'm after. I don't want a slippery surface, however! We're quite pleased with the new porch and don't want Pat to knock it down again... What is there that would provide a good finish that won't be like an ice-rink??

* the postman slipped on the doormat and, on putting his hand out to steady himself, demolished part of the wall... The PO have not, as yet, reimbursed us despite admitting fault, but that's quite another story.

 

[masochists-r-us]

Thanks for replies so far. I was thinking of using linseed oil or a mix of linseed and turps, but have seen lots of Web advice against this saying it will attract dirt. Wonder whether they are referring to boiled linseed oil which is quite sticky. Liberon said definitely don't use wax of any kind in a kitchen.Wonder if anyone has tried Osmo on quarrries ? Have tried Tableau red tile polish and tile paint on a small hearth in the past and didn't like it at all.

 

[Lime]

We've got some of these in the porch and, having had some necessary building works completed* I need to refinish them. I was thinking about the equivalent of Cardinal red polish that you paint on and leave to soak in, but I'm not certain whether that's really the colour/finish I'm after..[/size]

I don't recommend the modern version calling itself Cardinal Red... it isn't.
It is almost pink and nothing like the original Cardinal Red colour and nothing like the colour of the tiles either!

 

[AMc]

Wonder if anyone has tried Osmo on quarrries ?

I've used Osmo Polyx matt on my paments and floor bricks. It adds a slight sheen. I've had a lot of trouble with that floor but not with the finish which looks as good as the day I laid it.

 

[masochists-r-us]

I've used Osmo Polyx matt on my paments and floor bricks. It adds a slight sheen. I've had a lot of trouble with that floor but not with the finish which looks as good as the day I laid it.

Thanks AMc. Did you use a sealant before applying Osmo Polyx or does this product seal and finish all in one ?

 

[AMc]

No I didn't use a sealant before hand, that would defeat the object. Polyx is a hard wax oil; essentially vegetable oils mixed with white spirit as a solvent. It's supposed to be used as a wood finish (which I've used on my floors inc. the bathrooms) but it is also suitable for unglazed ceramics.
I tried a couple of tests and liked the finish and it seems to be working OK >2 years later. I applied it with a brush direct onto the floor bricks, spreading it very thinly or it won't dry. We clean it by hoovering regularly and moping with Ecover Floor Soap which contains Linseed oil.
Osmo Polyx Datasheets

It's quite expensive but a 2.5ltr tin goes a very long way providing you apply it in a VERY thin coat.
I bought mine from Paint and Paper in Norwich or Vanilla Flooring depending on who was cheapest when I needed it.

 

[masochists-r-us]

Thanks very much AMc. That has made my mind up. Was planning to use this product on our new oak floors, but hadn't realised that it would be suitable for quarries/floor bricks. Only question now is which finish to go for. Think I might try the satin matt unless you or anyone else advises to the contrary.

 

[MdB]

We used the Satin and are very pleased with the finish. It starts of shiny but dulls down once fully dry (a week or so).

 

[andrew gayton]

raw linseed oil and turps; 50/50 mix. I have used this on pamments, floorbricks and 'new' quarries. All good.

 

[Feltwell]

I don't think you need to treat them with anything. Old quarry tiles are as tough as old boots. Our kitchen and scullery ones have a very rigorous care regime - they get walked on a lot (partly by me in said old boots) and they get mopped occasionally. That's it, and they look great. Well, I think so - ours are original, the odd one is cracked or pitted, it just makes them look "right" in a way that too perfect a floor wouldn't.*

But, given that masochism is your thing, maybe hours of relentless polishing and then all the future upkeep of that are required..... :wink:

*(Terrible English, I know - what was it Douglas Adams said in Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy? "The Vogon spaceships hung in the air in exactly the same way that bricks don't" - or something like that)

 

[masochists-r-us]

Ha Ha Feltwell ! Have to say after five years of trying masochism, we're not averse to the odd quick fix nowadays !
Used satin matt Osmo Polyx on our hearth quarries and we're very pleased with the results so will very likely use it in the kitchen too.
Thanks for the suggestions.