sue gazzard
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Hi, does anyone have experience of using the above as an alternative to limewash? Can anyone tell me why it is posted as for "professional" painters only? What can be so difficult? Thanks for your help, Sue :?
- Thread starter sue gazzard
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Perhaps because, like limewash, you need to work carefully to avoid a patchy finish. Although this is well within the capability of keen amateurs, particularly those of us who take the time and trouble to look after our period houses properly.
I've noticed that Mark Womersley sells the stuff, too - here are some instructions for use:
http://www.womersleys.co.uk/pdfs/beeckosil.pdf
I've not used this stuff, but have limewashed. It's best to do a whole wall in one go, and not cut in edges afterwards when the wash has dried, as it leaves unevenly coloured patches. The problem wasn't so obvious with pure white, but was with the colour wash.
I'm not sure why the PPUK shop says the Beecks is for pros only - perhaps the risk of a disappointing finish if not applied properly is the reason?
I've noticed that Mark Womersley sells the stuff, too - here are some instructions for use:
http://www.womersleys.co.uk/pdfs/beeckosil.pdf
I've not used this stuff, but have limewashed. It's best to do a whole wall in one go, and not cut in edges afterwards when the wash has dried, as it leaves unevenly coloured patches. The problem wasn't so obvious with pure white, but was with the colour wash.
I'm not sure why the PPUK shop says the Beecks is for pros only - perhaps the risk of a disappointing finish if not applied properly is the reason?
sue gazzard
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Thank you Ian, it certainly sounds manageable - as you say, it's about taking care & doing the prep really - and a lot easier (and quicker) than several coats of limewash.
Hi
The PPUK Shop / Old House Store page says that they can offer technical advice, so it may be well worth getting in touch with them for more detailed info.
Here's a lovely limewashed building, after a few years of good service the colour's faded...
And after a refreshing coat or two...
I'd prefer limewash myself, as I'm still abit suspicious of anything 'new fangled'. But then again, I don't have to limewash the exterior of my own house.
I can see this thread sparking a discussion....
The PPUK Shop / Old House Store page says that they can offer technical advice, so it may be well worth getting in touch with them for more detailed info.
Here's a lovely limewashed building, after a few years of good service the colour's faded...
And after a refreshing coat or two...
I'd prefer limewash myself, as I'm still abit suspicious of anything 'new fangled'. But then again, I don't have to limewash the exterior of my own house.
I can see this thread sparking a discussion....
sue gazzard
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Hmm, 'new-fangled'? Been around since the mid-19th century..suppose it depends on your definition of new fangled!
sue gazzard
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Just noticed you're in yorkshire.....my family moved up there from Cornwall three hundred years ago 7 we're still 'newcomers'. Now I understand.
sue gazzard
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poooorrr thing!!!! 
jason.p
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Haven't used Beecks, but it sounds similar to Keim (I may be wrong!) which we have used on several occasions where limewash had failed. Is Beecks applied in one coat? With Keim there is a basecoat which looks suspiciously like PVA, but the stuff really sticks and is said to "breathe". It hasn't got the "depth" of finish of limewash, but is a fair second best.
biffvernon
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I can't imagine PVA has anything to do with a mineral paint. The 'basecoat' will be a potash waterglass solution, perhaps K2SiO3 + H2O, essentially the same as the top coat but without the mineral pigments. These mineral paints do have a very high water vapour permeability, i.e. they breathe. They also stick to the wall in a very permanent way.
Sue - I can't remember if you said whether or not the walls have been repaired with cement mortars in the recent past?
We're talking about a 16th century timber framed building, with exposed timbers and wattle and daub infill panels aren't we?
I'm sure you've already swotted up on all this stuff, but here's a useful article, with another pic from 'round the corner of the 2 earlier (red limewash) pics I posted above.
Obviously not much point putting a breathable finish on an impervious substrate (apart from aesthetically) - hopefully you won't have that problem.
http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/wattleanddaub/wattleanddaub.htm
So far the Beecks masonry paint isn't sounding too contentious.
We're talking about a 16th century timber framed building, with exposed timbers and wattle and daub infill panels aren't we?
I'm sure you've already swotted up on all this stuff, but here's a useful article, with another pic from 'round the corner of the 2 earlier (red limewash) pics I posted above.
Obviously not much point putting a breathable finish on an impervious substrate (apart from aesthetically) - hopefully you won't have that problem.
http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/wattleanddaub/wattleanddaub.htm
So far the Beecks masonry paint isn't sounding too contentious.
Nemesis
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How it performs long term though may an issue, if the building is to be re-rendered in lime (see other posts). As with all things, it will need recoating at intervals; lime does give a lovely finish which nothing else can emulate, and over many years and coats continues to function as it ought, building up character and texture as it goes.
Expensive stuff, isn't it, Sue?
12.5L, covers approx 100m^2
Womersley's prices, excluding VAT and carriage (and last year's catalogue) were from
White £85
Colours ranging from £91 to £168
Found it here too:
http://www.naturaldeco.co.uk/products/default.aspx?search=Beeckosil
Perhaps worth it if you consider reduced labour costs and increased redecoration intervals?
Sure you don't want to mix your own limewash from lime putty and earth pigments for 'peanuts'?
:wink:
12.5L, covers approx 100m^2
Womersley's prices, excluding VAT and carriage (and last year's catalogue) were from
White £85
Colours ranging from £91 to £168
Found it here too:
http://www.naturaldeco.co.uk/products/default.aspx?search=Beeckosil
Perhaps worth it if you consider reduced labour costs and increased redecoration intervals?
Sure you don't want to mix your own limewash from lime putty and earth pigments for 'peanuts'?
:wink:
sue gazzard
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Hi,
It is about reduced labour and increased re-dec intervals (also scaffold cost). I was looking for an alternative because of the supposed difficulty in achieving a good finish with limewash - and uncertainty about required number of coats etc. Is this a myth?
BTW the house currently has cement render but will be freshly lime rendered before painting.
It is about reduced labour and increased re-dec intervals (also scaffold cost). I was looking for an alternative because of the supposed difficulty in achieving a good finish with limewash - and uncertainty about required number of coats etc. Is this a myth?
BTW the house currently has cement render but will be freshly lime rendered before painting.
Hi Sue
Are you beecking/limewashing the exposed timber framing too?
Getting an even, uniform colour is certainly not easy with limewash, say compared with masonry paint, but the imperfect appearance is part of its charm. You can see what's possible with the red pigment in the pics I posted of Lavenham - that doesn't look too patchy but will fade over time to as it was in the 'before' shot.
I understand what you mean about cost of redecorating, and reasons for choosing the Beecks stuff. Seeing as you are re-rendering with lime in place of cement, whichever (breathable) finish you select is going to contribute to a major improvement.
Are you beecking/limewashing the exposed timber framing too?
Getting an even, uniform colour is certainly not easy with limewash, say compared with masonry paint, but the imperfect appearance is part of its charm. You can see what's possible with the red pigment in the pics I posted of Lavenham - that doesn't look too patchy but will fade over time to as it was in the 'before' shot.
I understand what you mean about cost of redecorating, and reasons for choosing the Beecks stuff. Seeing as you are re-rendering with lime in place of cement, whichever (breathable) finish you select is going to contribute to a major improvement.
sue gazzard
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There won't be any exposed frame...