Bathroom Floorboards?

[jungle_jim01]

Once the Christmas festivities are over we're planning on finally getting started on the bathroom. We've looked at lots of different floor coverings but being on a budget and wanting to maintain a victorian period image is a bit of a challenge! I'm trying to find out if anyone's got any advice on sanding and sealing the floorboards so that we end up with a varnished wood floor? It doesn't seem to be the done thing but there must be ways of making it work? Any suggestions really appreciated.

Many thanks and Merry Christmas

 

[Penners]

Before you do any radical sanding, try just giving the floor a good scrub with detergenty water.

Use a softish scrubbing brush, and always scrub along the grain. Use as little water as possible, and have lots of old towels to hand, to dry off the boards as much as possible afterwards. You may be surprised how much you improve the look of the boards.

If you still feel that you need to sand, don't use one of those brutal walk-behind sanders. They'll cut far too much wood off and remove the patina of the wood. Use a handheld orbital sander. Frankly it'll be harder work, but will be a lot kinder to the floor.

For more detailed advice on sanding and finishing, read Toby Newell's article: http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/ppuk_discovering_article_039.shtml

 

[middi]

In addition to Penners advise it is worth remembering that bare floorboards look really nice but the downfall is quite obvious, ie:- they will never be water proof and not really suitable for families with younger children.

I have bare oak floorboards in the upstairs bathroom which I originally coated with about 6 "light" coats of danish oil . They still look quite pristine ( after about 5 years ) but we are quite carefull with unnecessary splashing and waterproof backed (relevant to the area) scattered about matting wich are promptly removed and hanged after use.

Middi

 

[Tom]

Middi, I'm surprised how your boards look pristine being in a bathroom. How are you managing it? My new oak worktop has 5 coats of Dansih Oil on and already has white rings (from cold cups) and splash marks from things out of the dishwasher. I've never put hot things on there, only cold..although some slightly wet. What's the secret? I thought oil would repel the water, anyway. And, any tips on how to remove the marks? I've tried ash from the fire (as recommended on another website) but it doesn't work.

 

[middi]

How do I keep the bathroom floors in pristine condition DWB ?? .....easy... ( I never use the bath :wink: )

On a more serious note, keeping a bathroom floor in good condition is relatively easy compared to a kitchen worktop.

The only care needed in the bathroom is to strategically place rubber backed absorbing mats in those positions where it is more likely for water to splash on the floor. Once finished it is just a matter of picking the mats to be hanged over a radiator rail or similar, a quick wipe on the reast of the floor with an old towel or cloth and all is fine. In my case I throw the towel on the floor and use my feet to wipe stray splashes ( my wife goes ape sh^t !!).
Now, kitchen worktops ( as you well know) are not subjected to such caring and kind treatment, they are by nature used and abused. Heat,cold, grease, detergents, scratches, cuts etc. etc. , I would think it is about the only thing in your house that one would have difficulty to get insurance for. Let us face it, a few coats of protecting " oils" will get bleached out in a matter of days let alone months. Wooden worktops dont do " pristine", they do " well used" which simply translated means scubbing brush and mild disinfectant everytime you clean sink or worksurface area. Traditionally that is how worktops were kept in good order
By all means, apply oils if you want once they have been cleaned and dried if you like them to look " new(ish)". All it really amounts to is extra work that you have to keep doing.
Also there is no point in using hard " varnishes" as it would compound the cleaning problems once they get bleached and scratched ( that is if you haven't poisoned yourself beforehand)
Wish you merry scrubbing time , ( alternatively a granite worktop :wink: )

Middi

 

[JoceAndChris]

At this point I confess I threw the rule book out of the window and painted my bathroom floorboards with impermeable FnB floor paint in sludgy sludge. I love the look of them and they wipe clean in about a minute.

I'd never do that on really lovely old boards in main rooms though. ( and this is a stop gap as ultimately I think I'll have a thirties style bathroom with a smart black and white chequered floor)

To the OP - there are Osmo products that claim to be completely waterproof. I second Mr P's advice, those big floor sanders want to eat your floor and leave the teeth marks as evidence!

 

[Tom]

How do I keep the bathroom floors in pristine condition DWB ?? .....easy... ( I never use the bath :wink: )

:lol: Nice one!

In my case I throw the towel on the floor and use my feet to wipe stray splashes ( my wife goes ape sh^t !!).

Quite right....you wouldn't get away with that sort of behaviour in my house, either! :shock: :wink:

As for the scrubbing and re-oiling of worktops, that's fine; I can live with that. As long as that's what happens and it's something I just live with, then I can deal with it. Thanks

 

[jungle_jim01]

thanks for the tips so far. I hadn't really thought about the type of mat or the problems with industrial sanding.
I've been reading a bit about sealing boards and as far as i can work out i think i need to fill any larger gaps with a sawdust/pva mix, then a coat of varnish to fill any other smaller gaps, followed by 2 or 3 top coats.

Does this sound right? Has anyone done this already? My worry is that if i don't do a proper job we'll end up with water in the ceiling below!

 

[jungle_jim01]

Also...does anyone know if there's any issue with slight expansion/contraction of wood through the year. Is this likely to be significant enough to break the seal?

 

[Penners]

My new oak worktop has 5 coats of Dansih Oil on and already has white rings (from cold cups) and splash marks from things out of the dishwasher.

Jaqy - we have beech worktops. We keep them in good condition by (a) never allowing anything damp to rest on them for long, and (b) the principal areas are covered with glass protectors like this: http://www.lakeland.co.uk/see-through-surface-protectors/F/keyword/glass+worktop+protector/product/7201_1880 We always try to stand anything wet or hot on these.

We wouldn't have chosen beech out of preference, but they came with the house. They're beautifully fitted, and I can't be @rsed to replace them.

You just have to be vigilant about water, and of course re-oil regularly when this is needed.

 

[middi]

Also...does anyone know if there's any issue with slight expansion/contraction of wood through the year. Is this likely to be significant enough to break the seal?

Because of the contraction and expansion of wood due to differentials in temperature experienced in a home, be it summer or winter, hot or cold, damp or dry, filling gaps and sealing floorboard in the hope that water will not enter the gaps is completely useless.
Yes, the seal will eventually break and yes water will penetrate.
With reasonable care about minimising water spashes in the bathroom, but if it does happen the surplus water is removed reasonably quickly and the damp boards are allowed to " ventilate", then the boards will be kept in good order with little or no maintenance.

Hence my earlier comment about not being really suitable for young families with children.

Middi

 

[skier-hughes]

The oak boards in our ensuite look fine, they get drops of water on from the sink, or from getting out of the shower, but we take it this is a living in home, not a show house.
If we remember we mop up after ourselves, but this is really only if we have big bits of water.
We've been using this now for the last 2 months or so and it still looks great.
There is only the floorboards between ensuite and kitchen and we have no trouble with water coming through, lets face it if you drip enough water when getting out the shower you need to have a little shake first
Our boards are linseed oiled, as is our kitchen worktop.
Worktop is again now being used adn the drainer has had another coat of oil, bu the rest looks great.

 

[AMc]

I've Osmo Polyxed all the bathroom floors which are sanded original bare boards - 18 months in there are no visible problems and we're not careful at all . Admittedly they were all lifted, underfloor heating in screed fitted between the joists then relaid but so far we've not had any issues with water going through. There are gaps between the boards and IMHO trying to fill them permanently to prevent any gaps is a fools errand in a bathroom - given the variations in temperature and humidity.
Depending on your concern then you could lift the boards (number and indicate orientation on the back as you go)
lay a thin layer of marine ply/regular ply osmoed across the joists (marking the position of the joists so you know where to nail).
Then relay the boards on top which would minimise the chances of small spills going through into the ceilings below.

 

[Penners]

Because of the contraction and expansion of wood due to differentials in temperature experienced in a home, be it summer or winter, hot or cold, damp or dry, filling gaps and sealing floorboard in the hope that water will not enter the gaps is completely useless.
Yes, the seal will eventually break and yes water will penetrate.

Just a PS to Middi's good advice above: don't be tempted to glue the boards together, in order to try and prevent this contraction/expansion. All you'll succeed in doing is splitting the wood.