Any hope for a hammerite-ed Rayburn

[sarahj]

Hi there,

We have been given an old Rayburn (1950s or 60s) which was originally black, but which a previous owner has tried to paint blue with Hammerite. Can this be removed, and if so how? Otherwise will I have to paint over it again?

Thank you

Sarah

 

[bower1]

I'm not sure that Hammerite is heat resistant, so painting over it may not be a good idea. Has it been used sinced being painted?

 

[sarahj]

Yes, it's been used for many years since being painted. I'll know more tomorrow when partner brings it home. he beleives he'll manage it with heavy duty trolley and a few bottles of beer, but I'm not convinced - it'll probably be A LOT of beer!

 

[Nemesis]

Our AGA was moved using wooden staves to roll it on.

As the Rayburn is vitreous enamel, (apart from the sides which I think will be paint?) and Hammerite is paint, then a paint remover such as Nitromors should remove the Hammerite without touching the enamel. Try a small section first of course. Enamel is basically glass baked on at very high temperature.

The Rayburn enamel may also be chipped under the paint, but probably repairable.

 

[bower1]

Rayburns are VERY heavy. I've moved a Rayburn no2 (1950s) and I could tilt it to prop it up until high enough to get the trolley under. The newer oil Rayburns are heavier, but can still be done with 2 people.

Can't help with the paint I'm afraid. Is it oil or solid fuel? Solid fuel ones get much hotter.

 

[bower1]

As the Rayburn is vitreous enamel, (apart from the sides which I think will be paint?)

It may not have been enamelled. I think ours was only ever matt painted.

There is lots of useful info here:
http://www.rayburn-web.co.uk/raytech/ident1.htm

 

[Nemesis]

In which case getting it back to the cast metal will be the best thing, and it can be then refinished in something suitable like heatproof engine enamel, or, if cash no object, enamelled.

http://www.rayburn-web.co.uk/raytech/enamell.htm

 

[sarahj]

Thanks for the advice. It's solid fuel. Yes rolling along on a trolley will be ok for down the street, but there is a short steep gravel 'drive' (not quite a car's length), (gravel on earth) before the garage so I don't know what he has planned for that! It'l be restored in the garage, and we have plenty of time, as I will have to get chimney specialists in to advise on what type of flue we can use with the underground wall, and get LBC for it to be put in. The fabric of the kitchen is 1980s so we won't be altering any of the old part of the house, and the flimsy way it was built probably makes it easier to put it in.

 

[Penners]

I believe Hammerite is different from other types of paint, in that it hardens chemically, rather than just drying.

I suggest that you email Strippers Paint Removers of Sudbury, Suffolk. Ask them whether they make a stripper that will remove Hammerite from a Rayburn (bearing in mind that the Hammerite has probably been painted over stove-enamelling).

Click here for their email form.

 

[Nemesis]

Hammerite - it's really not as exciting a stuff as the manufacturers make out.

Nor, IMHO, as good... e'en though made not far from me.

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/hammerite_metal_paint_remover.jsp

 

[Penners]

No, not exciting. Just different from other, more conventional paints.

Specialist remover looks useful for the OP.

 

[Nemesis]

It's not all it's cracked up to be - IMHO and experience.

 

[skier-hughes]

I used it a lot many years ago and found it to be very good?
My use was on car parts, exterior, and it did what it said on the tin for many years.

 

[sarahj]

hi,

From the threads you posted I was able to identify our Rayburn as a Rayburn MF 1978 ish. The clue was that the original owner told me that she and her husband bought it when it was one of the first to be produced in Matt black. And its a multi fuel rather than a solid fuel so I'm please about that as well.

However, the thought of the cost of having the chimney fitted (along with the permissions) is almost putting me off the idea. you see, the wall for the chimney is underground until just above floor level for the bathroom above. Then the bath is also directly over that.....we are going to move our bathroom around (avocado suite) but we also need to rewire and plumb, and then there's the flat roof above (we would like a pitched roof but don't know if we would be allowed).

Isn't it just impossilbe to one thing at a time? we are strapped for cash to do everything at one go, but could just about manage to save up for one thing every six to twelve months but it is so difficult to know which order!

General moan, sorry!