Any advice regarding cast iron radiators?

[Tom]

I'm looking at buying 4 cast iron radiators (the sort that stand on the floor) and wondered if there's anything in particular I should be looking out for. I know the BTUs etc., but I'm wondering if some are built better than others, whether there are certain ones to avoid, things I should ask before I buy and so on. I'd be grateful for any help, as I know nothing about these at all. Thanks.

 

[MatthewC]

I too would be interested in any responses to this question as we intend to fit a couple when we sort out heating in our house next year.

I would also worry whether the reconditioned one had any internal corrosion, so one other important question is whether there is any merit in buying an old reconditioned one when you can buy some seriously impressive new ones in the old style.

 

[Flyfisher]

I've read that they can be pressure tested to check for leaks and pinholes caused by corrosion, which would some comfort, but it wouldn't really say much about the extent of any corrosion and, therefore, how long they would last.

 

[robgil]

with a decent inhibitor they should be fine, just dont pay stupid money for them.
i always keep an eye on e bay, sometimes local bargains can be had because they cannot be posted.
this is interesting and will tell you a bit about the history of cast rads, most people seem to think that anything old is 'victorian' especially radiators when in fact most of these rads are really from the middle of the last century when central heating became more common.

http://www.homelivinginteriors.com/downloads/radiators.pdf

 

[robgil]

I've read that they can be pressure tested to check for leaks and pinholes caused by corrosion, which would some comfort, but it wouldn't really say much about the extent of any corrosion and, therefore, how long they would last.

you can hire out a pressure tester for a few quid , its just a bucket to hold water,a hand pump and a gauge.

cast iron radiators are made in sections , each section has a spigot holding it to the next section with a gasket keeping it watertight. they can be stripped down , sections replaced , gaskets replaced etc and with the correct tools its not a hard job. most parts for cast radiators can easily be bought so if you have one that is leaking it can be repaired, if you can be bothered to faff around with it. most people will stick it on e bay and look around for another.

 

[Tom]

I wasn't thinking of buying reconditioned ones. As MatthewC says, there are some really impressive new ones available. I'm looking at this range at the moment http://www.ukcastironradiators.com/ The prices seem good, they sell 'extras' too and there's only a 3 week lead time. I really like the 'Chelsea' ones.

 

[robgil]

thats a chunky radiator. one tip i would give is to try and use iron pipes if you can, 15mm copper to me doesnt look right, also, to me the flow and return pipes dont look right if both are at the bottom , flow should enter a cast iron radiator at the top and return at the bottom, thus the need for iron pipes to make it all look in perspective.

 

[Tom]

I was going to buy the pipe sleeves, too, to cover the copper. I don't suppose there's much I can do about the flow being at the bottom if that's how they're made...or is there?

 

[robgil]

yes , they have blanking bushings at the top, well most will. just swap them over. usually the pipework was painted the same colour as the radiator, the pipe sheaths will hide the copper though and should look much better.
also , the original rads may not have had lock shields but i doubt you would get away without them these days.
flow doesnt necessarily have to be at the top with modern pumped systems , way back in the day it made the radiators more efficient , there may not be much of a difference on a modern day heating system.

 

[Flyfisher]

thats a chunky radiator. one tip i would give is to try and use iron pipes if you can, 15mm copper to me doesnt look right, also, to me the flow and return pipes dont look right if both are at the bottom , flow should enter a cast iron radiator at the top and return at the bottom, thus the need for iron pipes to make it all look in perspective.

Our house has various remnants of an old central heating system still in place, including 3-inch (yes, three inch) iron pipework in some places. Sadly, there are only a few old, and not particularly good looking, iron radiators left. The surprising thing is how small the radiators are for the size of the rooms. Unless they were red-hot in operation, I can't see how they could have done much good, although I guess they'd have kept the worst chills at bay.

 

[robgil]

iron radiators do bang the heat out, they have a slow response time but when they get there they stay there.

 

[Flyfisher]

Perhaps the radiators could be small because the 3-inch pipes must have radiated a fair bit of heat on their own!

 

[middi]

Original cast radiators had big bore pipes ( 4 in in some cases) simply because they operated on heat convection hence the source of hot water, coal and other solid fuel, was always fired in boilers below the level of any radiators.
With the advent of pumps the bore of pipes diminished and position of boilers not so relevant.

Modern small bore systems used in conjunction with modern fuels and control systems are much more efficient.

It does not make much difference if the pipes on cast rads are at opposite sides at the bottom, the circulating hot water will quickly warm up in the rads by convection.

There is nothing wrong with old rads as long as they are tested ( and painted). If you find them of course!!!

Middi

 

[robgil]

this is an old ideal standard radiator that i am reconditioning for my bathroom, so far its total cost is around 30 quid. it will need a couple of bushings and a top coat of paint or clear coat if i settle for the red oxide finish, the valves will cost more than the radiator unless i use a wheel handled gate valve to give it that industrial look.
i hope i can do all my radiators this way , cheap.

saying that though the work in stripping the old paint and rust off one of these by hand is a hard job , next one will be sand blasted i think.

 

[Tom]

I love the look of those and that company on the link above has those..the 'Victorian'. The only problem I can see is all the dust-collecting places on them :shock: :lol:

 

[Tom]

Oh, here's another question about these type of rads. Do they have to be attached to the wall? I didn't want to fix mine to the wall, so that I can have floor length curtains that will close behind them. Surely, unless you really go at them, they're not going to go anywhere....or would they?

 

[robgil]

young children might pull them over , they weigh quite a lot, even when empty.
and if a child did pull one over and the pipes started to spray hot water all over it it wouldnt be pretty.

 

[philpjuk100]

I think they should be secured somehow to prevent stressing the pipework.Would it be possible to fasten them to the floor with right angle brackets made out of black steel and bolted to the feet?On some on the web site with "bent" feet maybe the foot could be drilled for long woodscrews.Would have to check with the manufacturers that the feet are solid and I am mindful that you have pipes in the floor! The website prices look good when compared with ones on "salvoweb"phil.

 

[middi]

I love the look of those and that company on the link above has those..the 'Victorian'. The only problem I can see is all the dust-collecting places on them :shock: :lol:

Well, you can't have the "cake and eat it". They are supposed to gather dust ( part of the ambience) :wink:

Robgil is doing well, they are about £ 3/400 each to buy new

Middi

 

[robgil]

thanks Midi, if i was a wealthy man id probably still buy them second hand, 3/400 quid is a tad steep for a radiator.
they arnt victorian either, the ideal standard company came about from a merge of two different company's in the late 20's and produced this type of radiator well into the 50's or 60's, perhaps ideal copied a victorian design?