About to start replacing PVC windows - tips?

[a twig]

So, joiner just rang to say he will be delivering my shiny new hardwood DG windows and doors this week - so shall be ripping out the horrible white PVC faux diamond draughty windows and fitting the new ones from this weekend onwards...

Going into rubble stone walls, some have nice formed Bath stone openings all around, others are just stone heads and sills.

Any top tips? Suggestions for methods, materials, tools etc? Anyone got a step by step guide of "one they've done earlier"?

 

[Feltwell]

'Fraid not, but pictures of progress would be good :wink:

Actually, one tip I would give, following recommendations on here I've been impressed by Bedec MSP paint. The major repairs I'm doing to my bay window are in hardwood (hopefully to make these rot-prone areas more durable), the MSP goes on those plus the original softwood areas very well. Like all water based paints it does tend to lift the grain on new wood on the first coat, but a very quick rub down before the 2nd coat and it's fine. Let's just hope it's as durable as they say!

I've given up on linseed paint - just takes too long to dry to be practical - I just wasn't making enough progress.

Also, if you haven't got some already, I'd get a big mixed pack of plastic shims from Screwfix or Toolstation - they are invaluable for jobs like window fitting.

 

[Zebra]

Get some sheets of old ply and long pieces of timber. Then if it gets late and dark and you have taken a window out but haven't managed to get the new one in, hold the sheet of ply on the outside of the window, screw through it to timber braced across the inside, and you can quickly board up for security without drilling into the house at all!

 

[skier-hughes]

Also, if you haven't got some already, I'd get a big mixed pack of plastic shims from Screwfix or Toolstation - they are invaluable for jobs like window fitting.

Or just make your own from off cuts of oak!

 

[Owain]

Disposable plastic bootees will stop him tramping the flowerbed into the withdrawing room if he's coming in and out.

 

[Feltwell]

Or just make your own from off cuts of oak!

Unquestionably more "period"!

I don't mind things like plastic shims though, if they're hidden of course. A big bag is as cheap as can be and useful for so many things. There, I've said it, heresy!

It's a bit like pozidrive screws - for hidden applications only I wouldn't use anything else, except perhaps torx headed screws (but they're still quite expensive). For visible applications in an old house, never!!!

(Did someone say Jehovah?)

 

[skier-hughes]

All of our newly fitted wooden windows are held in with Oak shims, not a screw in sight! (or out of sight)

 

[Feltwell]

A couple more tips:-

A super-thin ended small pry bar like the one below is very useful for gently persuading frames in and out when fitting:-

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pry-bar-203mm/37748?_requestid=432329

Air wedges are absolutely fantastic when hanging doors - infinitely adjustable to take the weight of the door and raise it to the right height. Also fantastic for holding window and door frames in place in their openings temporarily - much better and more secure than wooden wedges - whilst you sort out fixings or permanent wedges.

A tip - ones sold to Locksmiths (they can be used to gently force car doors open) seem to be much cheaper than ones sold for construction use. Don't know why, they seem to be the same. Someone else on here got some after I recommended them once before and was very pleased with how useful they are. Example of some below - the ones I've got don't seem to be on sale any more, but they were only cheap ones and they've done the job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Air-Pu...723925&hash=item33d0a1f11b:g:vbEAAOSw~XpZPlxG

 

[Feltwell]

All of our newly fitted wooden windows are held in with Oak shims, not a screw in sight! (or out of sight)

Yep - I believe that was the way they were fitted in days gone by, and it can work very well. My original sash windows were fitted that way, I have had to screw a couple in place that came loose, as I couldn't get to the wedges to tighten the fit without risking damaging original architrave. That was about 120 years after they were fitted however!

I can see wedges being a good method especially if you have stone walls.

Modern window fitters sometimes put frames in just with a foam, no fixings at all. Sounds horrendous but I can see that it will give a good, insulated seal. I don't think it's the same expanding foam so beloved of bodgers everywhere, the stuff I've seen comes in a cartridge gun, is 2 part and is mixed in a special nozzle as it's squeezed out. Presumably it's a lot stronger and doesn't expand as much.

 

[skier-hughes]

Air wedges are absolutely fantastic when hanging doors - infinitely adjustable to take the weight of the door and raise it to the right height. Also fantastic for holding window and door frames in place in their openings temporarily - much better and more secure than wooden wedges - whilst you sort out fixings or permanent wedges.

Look very useful, I may get some for the door hanging.

What's this about temporary wedges, we just hammer them in, chisel off the excess, job done.

 

[plasticpigeon]

All of our newly fitted wooden windows are held in with Oak shims, not a screw in sight! (or out of sight)

Yep - I believe that was the way they were fitted in days gone by, and it can work very well. My original sash windows were fitted that way, I have had to screw a couple in place that came loose, as I couldn't get to the wedges to tighten the fit without risking damaging original architrave. That was about 120 years after they were fitted however!

I can see wedges being a good method especially if you have stone walls.

Modern window fitters sometimes put frames in just with a foam, no fixings at all. Sounds horrendous but I can see that it will give a good, insulated seal. I don't think it's the same expanding foam so beloved of bodgers everywhere, the stuff I've seen comes in a cartridge gun, is 2 part and is mixed in a special nozzle as it's squeezed out. Presumably it's a lot stronger and doesn't expand as much.

I have to confess I have stuck 2 sash windows in with botchers foam, now I am losing the will to do everything properly. My windows were held in with mortar at he horns top and bottom which was not satisfactory. I did one like that, one I scew screwed into wooden wedges which is also a traditional way, but I think the foam is easier and clogs up any gaps.

 

[Flyfisher]

I have to confess I have stuck 2 sash windows in with botchers foam, now I am losing the will to do everything properly.

Hmm, "properly" - now there's a loaded word if ever I've heard one!

I wonder if there's a generally accepted definition of 'properly' in a period property context, given that methods, materials, standards and regulations have changed over the years, nay centuries.

I suppose there's a strong argument for 'properly' being defined as contemporary to the time that the property, or the relevant part of it, was originally built, but how strict should we be? For example, crosshead screws in a period property seem to attract generally negative views, despite their clear advantages and the feeling that craftsmen of old would likely have leapt at the chance to use them if only they had been available to them, yet when it comes to simple nails, how many of us use hand-made blacksmith nails rather than mass produced 'wire' nails.

Take lath and plaster work for example. By the above definition, 'properly' would involve iron nails to fix the laths and we all know how readily they rust away, leading to failure of historic plastered walls. Stainless steel nails would, of course, eliminate this limitation and therefore result in a better quality and longer-lasting job - but would it have been done 'properly'? Would the use stainless staples and an electric staple gun be an even worse conservation crime?

I'm sure there are many other examples, of which expanding foam is just one.

 

[Zebra]

Disposable plastic bootees will stop him tramping the flowerbed into the withdrawing room if he's coming in and out.

Like these ones?

 

[Owain]

Disposable plastic bootees will stop him tramping the flowerbed into the withdrawing room if he's coming in and out.

Like these ones?

Only if you've got very very very soggy flowerbeds.