We took the carpet out of our bedroom about 6 months ago and found floorboards of varying widths between 6" and 12". They were very very dark but after walking on them some are showing up lighter where the dirt [wax?] has come off. There are some quite wide gaps between the boards so I wondered if lifting them all and relaying them closer together would be an option. Would this be a joiners job? we are not great at this type of thing. Is it common to have a wide variety of widths of board? Our house is about 250 years old [poss older] and was original used for animals [some would say it still is] and converted to housing at some point in the 1800s?
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skier-hughes
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If it were my house and the gaps weren't causing a problem, then I wouldn't fix what wasn't broken.
If you have to do it, then as you've said
I'd get someone in to do it for you.
I don't know whether it is common for varying widths of boards, unfortunately for us ours were all replaced after it had been used a chicken coop for a goood number of years.
If you have to do it, then as you've said
I'd get someone in to do it for you.
I don't know whether it is common for varying widths of boards, unfortunately for us ours were all replaced after it had been used a chicken coop for a goood number of years.
Nemesis
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Yes rainy, random boards are not unusual.
Is the building listed?
Is the building listed?
I'd leave em alone.
Lifting all the boards is hard, heavy work and you will probably split some boards in getting them up. Gaps are part of the character.
Then there's the collateral (sp?) damage.
The boards are trapped by skirting, so that comes off (and gets damaged). And then some plaster comes away from the wall. And nailing the floor back down cracks the lath and plaster ceiling below. And so on and so on. Before you know it, you have a lot of making good to do.
Been there, done it, regret it. Deeply!
Lifting all the boards is hard, heavy work and you will probably split some boards in getting them up. Gaps are part of the character.
Then there's the collateral (sp?) damage.
The boards are trapped by skirting, so that comes off (and gets damaged). And then some plaster comes away from the wall. And nailing the floor back down cracks the lath and plaster ceiling below. And so on and so on. Before you know it, you have a lot of making good to do.
Been there, done it, regret it. Deeply!
Nemesis
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I totally agree, if it was me I'd leave them alone and if there is a problem (like in my house where muck from the landing falls into the kitchen...) then filling would be more appropriate.
Best leave things as they are and adapt to the building, rather than try to make the building adapt to you.
Best leave things as they are and adapt to the building, rather than try to make the building adapt to you.
Various widths of boards if fairly common.
I would refrain from removing the old floorboards unless it is absolutely necessary. They rarely go back in another position unless it was the same spot they came from.
Any repairs should be made in situ if possible.
I would refrain from removing the old floorboards unless it is absolutely necessary. They rarely go back in another position unless it was the same spot they came from.
Any repairs should be made in situ if possible.
biffvernon
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250 years ago, Baltic pine was often imported in boards of pretty standard widths but locally grown timber, especially if it's oak or elm, was more often than not in random widths.
Early 18th century Baltic deal was often 11 or 12 inches wide while in the mid to late 18th century 8 - 10 inches becomes more common.
Don't try lifting them - life is far too short to try repairing the resulting mess.
Early 18th century Baltic deal was often 11 or 12 inches wide while in the mid to late 18th century 8 - 10 inches becomes more common.
Don't try lifting them - life is far too short to try repairing the resulting mess.
Penners
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Just adding my tuppence-worth to everyone else. Don't try and lift them. Your chance of doing so without considerable damage is close to zero.
Are they hardwood with quite a wild grain structure? If so, they're possibly elm, which was quite often used for wide floorboards as an alternative to oak.
If the gaps between them are unlivable-with, try inserting some tapered fillets of wood into them, then planing the fillets flush with the original boards. Pin the fillets to the flooring joists in order to try and avoid gluing them to these precious old boards.
Are they hardwood with quite a wild grain structure? If so, they're possibly elm, which was quite often used for wide floorboards as an alternative to oak.
If the gaps between them are unlivable-with, try inserting some tapered fillets of wood into them, then planing the fillets flush with the original boards. Pin the fillets to the flooring joists in order to try and avoid gluing them to these precious old boards.
thanks for all that. The gaps are very wide in some places and my sons keep poking small toys and stuff down there.
Its not a listed buildng and was much abused in the seventies so little remains of original fittings. we have uncovered the original flag floor downstairs and the ceilings downstairs are nt lathe and plaster - we pulled down the 70s ceilings and now have expsed beams - all upstairs rooms 'leak' dust dwnstairs - glad its nt just us. I really would need to fill a lot of the gaps as when the lights are on downstairs they shine up through the cracks in the floor. Whould this be a regular job for a joiner? I'm worried about somebody cocking it up.
Its not a listed buildng and was much abused in the seventies so little remains of original fittings. we have uncovered the original flag floor downstairs and the ceilings downstairs are nt lathe and plaster - we pulled down the 70s ceilings and now have expsed beams - all upstairs rooms 'leak' dust dwnstairs - glad its nt just us. I really would need to fill a lot of the gaps as when the lights are on downstairs they shine up through the cracks in the floor. Whould this be a regular job for a joiner? I'm worried about somebody cocking it up.
Penners
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A carpenter with experience of historic buildings should be able to pop in some fillets for you. Just be careful to check his/her credentials, though. A "bish-bosh" merchant could cause some damage.
Either that, or wait until your son has effectively filled up all the gaps with Lego. :wink:
Either that, or wait until your son has effectively filled up all the gaps with Lego. :wink:
Flyfisher
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I'd be tempted to replace the carpet, or do you specifically want to expose the wooden floors?
(Random fact department: Lego is 50 years old this year - in toy longevity terms this must be some sort of record and probably makes it eminently suitable for period property repairs. :wink: )
(Random fact department: Lego is 50 years old this year - in toy longevity terms this must be some sort of record and probably makes it eminently suitable for period property repairs. :wink: )
Penners
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So long as you carve today's date on it, to avoid any confusion in the future.
Penners
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Aha - another Dremel fan! One of those tools that you don't use very often, but when you do it's the only thing that'll do the job.
Penners
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As my orthopaedic surgeon would say, "if it hurts, don't do it"!
JanieB
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As I also build dollshouses as well as trying to renovate an old house, my Dremel is a must :lol: . I can't resist any new gadgets to go on it (I just wish I could work the router) 
FamilyWiggs
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You'd be amazed at how many uses I have found for my whilst... plumbing!!